Toubacouta Pictures

Baobab in La Parc National de Delta du Saloum

Village in Delta du Saloum

Football in Toubacouta

Boat in Toubacouta estuary.  

09/02/09 (#2)

Hi again,

Toubacouta- Friday

We started the day by visiting a fishing center in Missirah near Toubacouta.  This center was financed by the Japanese, and works to train and equip Senegalese to be professional fishermen.  While this goal has been largely successful, there is now a problem with overfishing.  There are too many fishermen, the worst of whom are large Korean and Japanese industrial fishing boats which come into the area and catch a lot of fish.  I didn’t understand this exactly, but their fishing rights are somehow connected to the center.  Perhaps they financed this fishing center in exchange for the industrial fishing rights, I’m not sure.  Anyway, but now the center is trying to implement policies, like licensing fishermen and monitoring the size of fish caught, to increase the population.  

While it seems like a good environmental policy, requiring fishermen to have a license creates an interesting cultural problem.  Traditionally, many Senegalese in the rural areas were both farmers and fishers.  They switched back and forth, according to the weather and which enterprise was more successful at the time.  However, imposing the license requirement removes a revenue source for the non-professional fishers because it doesn’t economically make sense to buy a license to only fish part time.  

After the fishing presentation, we went to talk to a group called ANCAR (Agence nationale de conseil agricole rurale, which means National Agency for Rural Agricultural Advice).  I was really looking forward to this presentation, since it was about ag, but honestly I couldn’t understand a lot of the presenter was saying.  He is an agricultural technician, but he had a strong accent, and was using a lot of fairly technical vocabulary.  I learned that the main crops of the region are peanuts, corn, rice, and millet.  The main goal of the group was to address farmers’ questions and problems, and the technician went over some of the main agricultural challenges, like young people leaving their villages to go to cities to find jobs.  

After lunch, we got into some canoes and headed for La Parc Nationale de Delta du Saloum (Delta Saloum National Park), a national park in the tidal mangrove ecosystem.  When we got to the park we hiked for some time to reach the park office and camping facility.  There we sat and listened to the conservation officer talk about the park and mangrove ecosystem.  The park has only been officially a conserved area for a few years, but they have already seen an increase in the number of animal and plant species in the area. 

This park and its mission of conserving the environment reminded me some of the RSCN sites I saw in Jordan.  However, it was different in that the officer said that the Senegalese aren’t really interested in conserving the environment.  Most people are poor to the point that the environment is seen as a means of living, not something valuable to be conserved.  Poverty simply is or has been in the recent past such a difficult reality for so many people, that conserving the environment still seems like an unrealistic use of resources.  As of now, it seems like the most environmental success has come through teaching people new ways to get the same resource in a more sustainable manner, like a new method of harvesting oysters that doesn’t destroy the mangrove roots where they live.  Helping the nature still needs to help the people to be feasible here, but the latter hasn’t really taken root yet.

Friday night the group went to a village dance soiree.  The environment was very similar to la lutte, but this time we knew what was going on, and what to expect.  There was a traditional Senegalese dance troupe who performed several dances in different Senegalese styles.  After that, a fire juggler and stilt walker came out, and did some impressive tricks, which reminded me of a circus.  Finally, there was an open dance circle.  Individuals, pairs, or small groups would go into the middle of the circle and dance for a little bit while everyone watched and cheered.  It was really neat, and at least in this village, the Senegalese were very good dancers.

Love,

Mel

09/02/09

Dear All,

Toubacouta- Travel and Arrival

From last Thursday to yesterday our group has been on a field trip in a rural village called Toubacouta.  We left at 7 (well actually 7:20 thanks to the boys in our group) in the morning on Thursday, and spent about six hours in the van.  There was some traffic leaving Dakar, since there is only one road leading to the city.  We stopped once to buy fruit in Kaolac (which took a really long time), and shortly after the fruit stop the road got considerably worse.  

It felt like the road had been paved at one point probably years ago, but then it was not kept up.  There were little warning triangle signs near the really large potholes, and generally it was really bumpy.  We heard that this is the norm for roads in the rural areas, except for areas of particular interest to the president or politicians, like their home towns.  So, other than isolated rural areas, cities receive virtually all of the national road budget.   There have been strikes in the transportation sector about the roads, but so far is hasn’t had much of an impact.  We didn’t know it at this point, but this disparity between urban and rural areas extends far beyond roads, to include general infrastructure, education, and health funds.     

When we got onto the bus Thursday morning we were introduced to six Senegalese students who were coming with us on the trip.  At first, I thought that they were just coming along as fellow students to see the area and learn about development.  However, when we arrived it became clear that they were our tour guides (and for some situations translators) since they had all either grown up in or gone to school in Toubacouta.  

It was a lot of fun to finally meet some Senegalese students our same age whom we could trust to not view us as a means to achieve economic gain.  Their presence made for much more interesting bus rides, since they started communal bus (and canoe) sing-a-longs.  We learned some Senegalese songs, and also sang some American songs (some of which they already knew). Also, on Saturday night when we went out to a dance club, the Senegalese students taught us some Senegalese dances which were a little crazy, but a lot of fun.

On the way to Toubacouta we stopped at a small village called Sokone, where Professor Sene (the director of WARC) grew up.  He introduced us to his family, including his older brother and two of his brother’s four wives.  Polygamy is fairly common in Senegal, especially in the rural villages.  Waly told us today in class that about 65% of men in rural villages have more than one wife for economic or prestige reasons.  Also some men decide to marry another woman to “correct” the first one if he’s not happy with his first marriage, or she’s not paying enough attention to him.  Although, according to Islamic law when a man gets a second wife he’s not allowed to just ignore and neglect the first one, but I suppose a good second wife is supposed to exert a positive influence on the first one.   Anyway, we ate lunch and ataaya (a traditional tea ceremony) in Sokone, and it was interesting to meet Professor Sene’s family and see the place where he grew up.

Thursday night after we reached Toubacouta and settled into our encampement (basically like a collection of little one room cottages with a common dining and cooking area) , we went to visit the local poste de santé, or health clinic.  We spoke with la sage femme, which translates literally as the wise woman, but she’s basically like a nurse’s assistant.  The government also pays the nurse, but they are the only staff of the clinic.  This health clinic was built with aid from a Belgian NGO, and I think is still partially supported by that group.  While the work that the Belgian group did and does is helpful and good, it also illustrates the lack involvement and aid from the Senegalese government  in rural areas.  The health clinic was just the first of several examples of a failure by the government to provide the rural people with rudimentary supplies and services, a hole which is partially filled by international involvement.   

From a western point of view, it seemed like a really small health care facility with only basic care, but we learned later that it is much better than what most smaller villages have.  Furthermore, the reason Toubacouta has a “good” health clinic, is because of the relatively large amount of tourism, and the tourists who want medical care, not for the local people.  However, the clinic does also service the locals at a reasonable rate.  

On Thursday night, we went to a local Senegalese wrestling contest, which is called la lutte.  It is different than US wrestling, in that the goal is to force the other man to the ground, but if any part other than knees or arms touches the ground the match is over.  La lutte is really popular and it seemed like the whole village turned out to watch.  During the match there was also drumming, singing, and dancing going on around the perimeter of the wrestling area.  The kids sitting on the edges of the crowd would just randomly get up and start dancing, and they were really good!  We were given seats of honor in the front, which were actually almost the only chairs there.  It was really exciting with multiple matches happening concurrently, and lot of things to watch and hear at once.

While I really enjoyed la lutte, several of the students, myself included, noticed that we were singled out more than we expected as the very clear guests of honor.  For example, Professor Sene went up to the front to be thanked by and thank the chief of the village, and we were called by name to go up front and present the winners with their trophies.  After the match was over, we found out by happenstance, that the whole match was arranged for us by Professor Sene.  La lutte doesn’t normally happen during the dry season, and definitely not on a Thursday night.  Some of the students were really upset that Professor Sene and the program set up this spectacle for us.  In part I agree with them, but I also understand Prof Sene and Waly wanting us to experience la lutte in person to see this piece of Senegalese culture, and there was really no other way to achieve this goal.  I just wish they had told us beforehand, so we didn’t have to find out after the fact that we had bought our “cultural experience.”

I hope everyone is doing well!

Love,

Mel

03/02/09

Hi Everyone,

For the last four days Maman and Papa have been on a trip with their French friends.  I’m pretty sure they went to Casamanse, but it was definitely somewhere with a beach.  I was a little afraid that with them gone, Danielle and I would have no one to talk to, but it turned out to be fine.  Antoine has definitely warmed up to us, and we joke around with him in the typical Senegalese fashion.  It actually took Danielle making fun of him to break the ice with him.  I’ve also been talking to Therese (or Kenjo as the family calls her, and no I have no idea if that’s actually spelled).  She’s generally a happy, fun person, and I like spending time with her.  I think has helped that I’ve been trying to offer to help more often.  

We’re never asked to help with anything, but as members of the family, I feel like we should help with the work.  We did dishes once, and I’ve been offering with varying success since then.  Many of the other students’ families don’t want them to help, but our family doesn’t feel that way.  Often times by the time I get home from WARC it’s too late to help with any dinner prep.

I think I have gotten more comfortable here in general, so that definitely helps my interactions with the family.  Also, being more comfortable makes it easier to communicate in French because I’m not as afraid to make mistakes.  I can usually understand what people are saying as long as they’re not talking too fast.  There has been another French visiter staying at our house for the last couple of days.  He is a retired Frenchman who works with a humanitarian group helping orphans in Casamanse.  This foundation helps the single mothers send their children to school, and even follows the progress of their education through university in Dakar if they get that far.  So, to connect back to French I had a long conversation with this French gentleman about the foundation’s work and goals.  It was mostly him talking, with occasional awkward questions from me, but I was happy I could understand him.  

Today I had my first agriculture and the environment class since last week was cancelled, and I like it a lot.  From the overview of the class it sounds like we’re going to be talking about some pretty interesting stuff.  I was glad to be in a class where I finally have some knowledge about the subject matter.  I’ve realized since coming here it’s kind of strange do a study abroad program that’s so different from your major as mine is.  Almost everyone else is majoring in international studies, development studies, or anthropology, basically they’ve all taken several pertinent classes.  Actually though, I’m happy that I have the opportunity to spend this semester learning about development and Senegalese culture, because African studies is definitely not a normal part of the Agroecology major! 

Random Notes

-I’ve discovered I really like Fanta, a fruit soda.  It’s basically sugar, fruit juice, and carbonation, but it’s good.  There is also pineapple soda which is good.  Also for Evan, I got apple tisser (or however you spell it) on the plane, and it was good too. :)

-My Wolof teacher is awesome and teaches us completely random phrases, like what to say if you’re really angry that some guy is flirting with you. 

-sometimes classes are cancelled or start early and no one tells you.  The Senegalese in general are much more flexible with time than the Americans.  Noon might mean, twelve thirty, one, or actually noon, it’s impossible to know.  I guess that’s why the Wolof proverbs we’ve been learning keep talking about being patient! 

Love,

 Mel

L'Atlantique

I like the ocean.

Pictures

Atlantic coast in Dakar

Statue at entrance to slave house.

 

L'Ile de Gorée from ferry.

31/01/09

Hi Everyone,

So today is Saturday, and I’ve successfully finished my first week of classes. I seem to be on track doing all the touristy stuff in Dakar. My environment and agriculture class was canceled on tuesday, leaving me with a whole day free, which I used to go to the beach.

I went with the Papa and his French guests (a couple) to L’Ile de Ngor, a beautiful little island with two beaches. It was sunny and warm, but I didn’t brave the water. I had a bit of an adventure getting there, because I decided last minute to go, so the others had already left. So, I took a taxi, but the taxi driver ignored what Papa told via telephone to drop me off at the pathway to the beach. Instead I found myself in a little town square sitting on a bench next to some sheep. This wouldn’t have been any problem except I had no idea where Papa and the others were waiting for me, since his directions to the taxi driver had been in Wolof. After a few minutes a nice man showed me the way down to the beach were I found the group. Excepting this little hang up, the day went smoothly, with a little walk around the island, lunch at a nice restaurant, and some sun bathing. It reminded me of vacation last summer hanging out on the beach with Nancy, Phoebe, and Sarah. L’Ile de Ngor is definitely a tourist place because the people in the boat over were almost entirely white. I wonder if the Sengalese have a different beach where they go, or if swimming and sunbathing is mostly a western thing. Either way, I won’t know for a while since the Senegalese probably don’t go now since it’s “winter” and all. Also a weekday is probably not prime time for going to the beach since most people would be working.

Even disregarding my canceled class, I don’t spend as much time in class here as I’m used to (no labs to monopolize my schedule!!!). I made a little chart with my class schedule since that seemed easier than trying to write out an explanation. (sorry it's blurry, it uploaded strangely).

So as you can see my program is structured with each class meeting infrequently but for a long time. Most of the professors give us a short break in the middle of class, which is especially nice during the three hour language classes (it helps my head hurt less :) This class load is 12 credits, and I’ll get another four for my internship.

So far I’ve been satisfied with the academic level of our classes, and pleasantly surprised by the quality of the other students. My fellow students are really a participatory, interested, and smart group. I have much to learn from most of them, since for the most part they are anthropology or international studies majors, and have studied international development and culture much more than me. It doesn’t bother me, but sometimes I feel a little behind when the book and movie references start flowing since I haven’t read/seen most of them.

Today at lunch time I helped cook for the first time. I was just sitting near the kitchen when some garlic cloves and a knife appeared in front of me, and just like that, I was helping. I could tell that my host sisters, cousin, and the maid didn’t think I’d done much cooking before because I was the designated peeler (garlic, onions, and potatoes), and when I finished something it was celebrated. I was kind of glad I got the easy jobs, because honestly beyond peeling, many of the tasks are accomplished differently here. The women don’t really use the stovetop like we do (many families don’t have an oven and stove). They cook more things over this big gas burner that’s about floor height. Also, there is a metal like thing they put charcoal in, and then place pots right on top of the charcoal. That seems to be the slow boil method for meat, while the gas burner cooks the veggies, rice, or fish for the upcoming meal.

Everyday my host sisters come home from school at lunchtime to help with the lunch preparation, and dinner prep is also started. For a while I was amazed in the evenings how fast they cooked fairly complicated meals, but now I understand their secret. Our host mom doesn’t seem to cook at all. Today when my host sisters were at school, my cousin Virginie and the maid did the cooking. In the evenings Cathy and Therese (my host sisters) do all the cooking and the dishes. A little different than our house, right mom?

I understand that it’s a different culture, but it doesn’t sit well with my that the men do absolutely nothing around the house. The women spend hours each day preparing what I consider big meals for both lunch and dinner (rice, vegetables, fish, and always some sort of homemade sauce for the fish), and the men do nothing except eat and leave. I think my host brothers and father have ever washed a dish, or a single garment in their lives, even though no one here has a dishwasher or a laundry washing machine. The worst part for me, is that they completely take the women’s work for granted. Often there isn’t even a thank you given to the cooks, and it’s clearly an expectation that the women will do all the household work.

One reason that families can operate this way is that single adults don’t live apart from their families. In many families, there is more than one adult female to help with the work, and because the men never live in a household without women they don’t have to learn how to manage the house. Also, aside from helping other families with household work (maid or laundress) women usually don’t work outside of the home, so they are able to manage the household upkeep.

As far as the work itself, the biggest difference is the amount of time it takes to accomplish the same task. For example, all the laundry is done by hand, so on Wednesdays there is a laundress who come to the house and spends hours (I went to class so I don’t know what time she left) doing everyone’s laundry. But, each person has to wash their own socks and undergarments, and I’ve definitely decided that the washing machine is my new favorite appliance. I’m working on being more patient, but doing laundry by hand is mind numbing work. Since the cooking and household chores take so much time, it is harder to spend time with the women of the house, and I was glad to be included in their work today.